Well, we did it. The first 100 miles are behind us. I think it’s safe to say that these 100 miles have been tougher than we expected but the scenery and the food more than made up for it. I can’t lie, I used the F word a few times. This word is particularly helpful when you think you are home free, but come to yet another steep incline or descent at 40+% grade that seems to meander on forever. As Scott says, we’ve discovered there is no flat ground in this part of France. In fact, I’m sitting at a table that’s perched at an angle on the side of a small hill as I write this.
We planned no rest days until we arrive Cohors but today is almost a rest day. We had only a 6km walk from St Come to Espalion so arrived early. Of course that 6km was straight up hill and I am not joking when I say that one section of it was a 40% grade so that part for me was more like a climb.
Prior to this camino, I’ve completed the 500 mile Camino Frances from St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago and Scott and I completed the Portuguese route from Porto to Santiago. I can say that the first 100 miles of the Le Puy route have been more physically challenging for me than any section of either of those. Here’s why,
along with some key differences between this route and the other two:
The rolling hills are challenging, but the terrain is tougher than just that. There are sections that are extremely rocky and steep which means that it’s 100% concentration picking your way up and down. While sometimes these stretches are short, more times than not they’re incredibly long. One section we hiked was 4 miles of that. So for me, with depth perception issues (and lacking confidence in balance since I broke my ankle) the descents are arduous. The terrain in this region is basically solid rock which is why very little is grown here. It’s basically cattle grazing land.
The infrastructure is good but not at all like the other two caminos that I’ve done. Of the 7 hiking days we’ve had we’ve only past 3 places where we could stop for a coffee or a snack. So you have to be prepared with snacks (we’ve carried fruit and chocolate with us every day) and make sure you’ve got plenty of water before you head out. There are places to refill water but not nearly as plentiful as Frances and Portuguese. Most of these places are actually in or near cemeteries or church yards. If you can find a cemetery or a church yard you will usually find potable water. And, there have been quite a few public toilets that are accessible and clean.
There are gites and small hotels along the way. We are staying in private rooms because of COVID. Not quite up to dorm living right now though the gites here are all full. They’re all well appointed and lovely. On this Way it’s best to book ahead according to all of the forums and we are glad we did. Everything is sold out. There are some people who are winging this route and are having trouble with accommodations. They came prepared to book ahead 3 days and even doing that haven’t been able to get rooms so have had to walk further than planned or take a taxi.
We all know I love the camino Frances. Every single thing about it. That said, the food on the Le Puy route is just darned good. We haven’t had a single bad meal. Every place we’ve gone the menu has been different vs the standard pilgrims meal on the Frances. The only exception to this is there has been one section where Aligote was served every where we went. This is a heavy potato cheese dish. It looks like mashed potatoes but is stringy and cheesy. One night of that was enough for me but it’s been part of the menu for 4 days of the 7 walking days. At this point I can’t even look at it.
Language is a challenge…if you don’t speak French. I am not fluent in Spanish either but I know enough to get by. We’ve only met one other English speaker on the route and most places we stay are owned or managed by people who don’t speak English. Thankfully they are patient with us as we use google translate.
The pilgrim vibe is not the same though I am told this will change the closer I get to St Jean. Ninety percent of the hikers we’ve met are French. And most are holiday walkers that will stop in Conque or Cohors. Many do not carry anything bigger than a day pack for their water and they have big suitcases that are sent ahead. That’s all fine though it does change the vibe a bit. We are carrying two changes of clothes so every day I wash what we’ve hiked in and we wear what I washed the prior day to dinner. The holiday hikers finish their hikes and take showers and come down in full dinner attire, meaning not in hikers clothing. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with sending luggage ahead and having clean fresh clothing every day, it’s just one of the differences between this route and the other two I have done. I guess I’d say there’s less “roughing it”, which is totally fine. People send luggage ahead on every other camino, it’s just usually minimal luggage.
Scott is with me another 105 miles and then I head out in my own. I’m already dreading the day he leaves. I’ve read that the last two weeks heading into St Jean are not as grueling as these first 100 miles. I hope that’s the case so I can be fresh when I head over the Pyrenees.
That’s it. That’s all I’ve got for today. If you’re considering this route and have other questions, ask in the comments or email me! Cheers and
Buen Camino! Bon Chemin! Walk with joy. #fortheginger
All sounds great except - not many cafes or English speakers and too much of Aligote!😂